Pictures!
It’s autumn.
The leaves are turning and it gets a little bit colder every day. I bought a “gas fan heater” – a natural gas heater – and as Japanese homes have next to no insulation, I’ve been putting it to good use. Here it is in all its glory.
On Saturday, I made a trip to Kyoto. It was a bit of a last-minute affair; I didn’t start the 1.5-hour train ride until 10:00, but I wanted to see Kyoto in its autumn colors and the weather report said it would rain on Sunday, so I leapt at the window of opportunity. As it turned out, it started raining mid-afternoon on Saturday – earlier than predicted – so I didn’t get to do as much as I had hoped, but the trip was still well worth the trouble.
I really only accomplished two things. I ate lunch and I visited a temple.
Lunch was at a restaurant called Tagoto, in central Kyoto. [Edit: Tagoto’s website has been redone. The English portion is now just a page of text, but the pictures on the top page speak for themselves.] Tagoto is in an upscale shopping district and has a very narrow storefront (note that I ate at the original Tagoto, but there are also a few branch locations). From the street, you only see a curtained doorway and a sign, and I almost missed it as I walked by.
My Japan guidebook mentioned lunch at Tagoto as a way to try high class Kyoto cuisine without breaking the bank. A meal for one was about $27, but that’s less than half what dinner costs, and the bill at this type of restaurant is often more than $100 per head.
I could go into more detail, but to get the point, the food was outstanding. I mean really, really good. Wow.
The temple I visited was Kiyomizu-dera, one of Kyoto’s iconic sites. Kiyomizu means “pure water” (tera/dera = temple), and the complex dates from 778, when a Buddhist monk was led by a vision to a font of water, where he then founded Kiyomizu-dera.
The temples were rebuilt in 1633, but the water still flows today, and is regarded as having curative powers.
I didn’t wait in line for a drink, though.
This is a shot from above…
…which leads me Kiyomizu-dera’s most famous feature. The main temple has a huge veranda that juts out over the hillside. There is a legend that if you jump off the veranda and survive, your wish will be granted. Apparently there were over two hundred recorded attempts during the Edo period (1600-1868), and the success rate was about 85%. Chances were no doubt improved by all the greenery on the slope.
From this vantage, you can see some of the other buildings of the temple complex :
If you are particularly observant, you’ll notice that while the other buildings are constructed in the usual manner of Buddhist temples, the main hall has a thatched roof instead of tiles. I know that there’s a reason for it, but I’m not clear on the story. Something about a general receiving a mansion from the emperor and then dismantling it and donating the parts for the construction of the main temple.
Okay, I need to wrap this up and get to bed, so that’s what I’ll do. Here’s one last picture.
おやすみ。(Goodnight.)